Revealed: How to skip the car dealership and lease any car with $0 cash down in the USA!

Before I reveal to you how I get any car in the USA at the best price, with $0 cash down (sign and drive) – and without going to a dealership…

Let me show you how my new-car leasing system works so you can determine if it will work for you – then you can sign on.

But first, I have a quick story to share with you…

Take a look at this:

2013 RAV4 finance agreement

See how I was paying $460.97 a month for the car?

Burn this image into your mind, because my story has a nasty twist. And I will never forget it.

Exactly two years later, I decided to upgrade and get the exact same car. (The new model was vastly safer.)

We drive – a lot

Since we drive over 50,000 miles a year, we get new cars every other year. And I always thought I knew all the tricks of getting the best prices on cars.

Boy, was I wrong – which I am about to reveal…

In August of 2014, some dude crashed into our car. We were stopped at a red light. And he was texting. It did not end well – and it damaged our car’s rear.

Since it was his fault, I took the car in for repairs at the best shop around. And since cars in accidents plunge its resale value, I looked to trade the car in for a new one as soon as the repair was fixed.

And exactly a week later, I drove down the street to our local Toyota dealership.

Getting a new car locally was mistake #1 (I will explain a bit later)…

I said to the car salesman, “If you accept my trade and sell me a new RAV4 with the same monthly payment and the same term, you just made the easiest sale of your life.”

My monthly payment was $460.97. And I financed the car for 60 months.

Minutes later, his manager agreed to my deal. This was mistake #2. They did not even play the back and forth games they always play. (This should have been a HUGE red flag.)

“I have great news, Markus. My manager really wants your RAV4. And he is willing to match your monthly price. Do we have a deal?”

I looked at my wife for her approval. After all, happy wife, happy life, right? After some convincing, she nodded yes. And within minutes we were signing the paperwork for our new car.

But then he grabbed my shoulder and this happened…

Minutes after signing all the paperwork, our shiny new car arrived. The new-car smell was roasting in the hot summer air. In a blink, my family was excitedly transferring all our crap from our old RAV4 to the new RAV4.

Our salesman handed me both sets of keys. Then he showed us how to pair the phone to the entertainment system. And then he said something that will haunt me the rest of my life.

He looked at me square in the eyes, squeezed my shoulder and said, “You know Markus, you really took us to the cleaners this time.”

I instantly froze.

(This was mistake #3.)

Because earlier in the week, I watched several car-training sales videos. And one of the videos talked about making a new customer think they got a great deal – even if they did not.

The trainer described EXACTLY what happened to me – right down to the shoulder grab.

At that moment, I knew I got hustled.

And it was weird because I scanned the finance agreement twice – looking for problems.

I was super upset, but I could not show it. I did not want to be the buzz kill. My family was stoked that we had another new car. Plus, our old car was already driven off somewhere into “car heaven.”

As is tradition, we always take a new car and go for a super long road trip…

But as soon as we got home, I rushed upstairs with “the papers” to my home office. I ripped open the stapled-shut envelope and headed right to the paperwork. And sure enough, I could see instantly that I got fleeced – taken to the cleaners.

Take a close look at the term of the finance agreement:

2013 RAV4 finance agreement price term

Even though we verbally agreed to clone the exact same deal, both the monthly payment and term was different.

The monthly payment was close enough, but the bastards switched out the 60 months and replaced it with 72 months:

2015 RAV4 term

Their secret hustle added another 12 months at $476.36 per month. This accounting scheme added another $5,901.00 to the cost of owning this car.

But wait… it gets worse:

I thought we got a huge discount to keep my car payment relatively the same each month. But, in reality… we only got a puny $750 discount off the full sticker MSRP price:

2015 RAV4 discount

It is worse still: we paid a whopping $4,467.70 in finance charges.

The bottom line is, instead of getting a great deal, the dealership owner was laughing all the way to the bank.

And getting that slap on my shoulder was the ultimate dagger into my back.

Lies. Damn Lies. And a whopper of a lie…

We all have been lied to about getting a good deal on a new car.

I can prove it:

Our parents would shop at least 10 dealerships before finding the lowest-priced car. They did not have the internet, so it took them weeks to shop before they bought.

But these days, we have been tricked and trained to do all the research online.

As a result, we only shop an average of 1.1 dealerships. In other words, we go into a dealership with the invoice price on our phone… the dealership pretends to huff and puff and play back-and-forth games… holding us hostage in their “lion’s den” for hours at a time… then they finally accept our “invoice price” offer.

And since the car dealership accepts our “invoice price”, we never think to shop their competitors for an even better price.

The auto industry makes car shopping so painful, we are thrilled to get the darn car at the price we seek out.

But here is the truth about the “invoice price”. These days, it averages just 6% of the full sticker MSRP price…

Yet:

More than 20 years ago, the same “invoice price” averaged 15% to 20% off the MSRP. Take a look:

new car invoice price fallacy

Once again, the auto industry has lied to us. They have tricked us into thinking invoice price was the lowest negotiable price.

And as I am about to reveal, the auto industry LOVES to lie in order to sell more cars to us.

I will never forget.

Getting fleeced was the final straw for me.

When I saw how much more I paid for our new Toyota RAV4, I swore I would never make the same mistake again.

I took a radical pivot in my life – at age 49. During the prime of my life, I decided right on the spot to take an entire year off from my business. And I was going to MASTER the art of getting into a new car.

I would no longer struggle or fret and hate the car-buying process. Instead, I would create a fool-proof system that actually made it FUN to get into a new car.

In fact, my system would work so well, anyone could “borrow it” and see the same great results – again, without getting fleeced.

The very next day, I went to work on this new project.

And I hunkered down and went behind the scenes of the car-selling business.

It all started off at a chance meeting at a Texas Roadhouse bar. By sheer coincidence, I had a 3-hour conversation with the General Manager of the area’s biggest Cadillac dealership. He was already primed with lots of beer… and boy did that pay off. He talked my ear off that night. And I learned a TON about the car-selling business. And it was SHOCKING. (If he only knew I would use his insider information to my advantage.)

Then I visited an old buddy of mine. He was a retired new-car salesman. He sold me one of our cars the year before (yep, he probably fleeced me, too:>). He since moved on to become the Finance & Insurance manager on a used-car lot. And over lunch, he revealed a lot of the secrets car sellers do not want to know. Stuff like whether we really needed GAP insurance, extended warranties – even tire replacement insurance.

My quest for the truth continued later that week:

I visited people at car-buying services. They typically set up across the street from CarMax and offer to beat their price. Since they did not sell cars, I had a gut feeling they were ex- car sellers who hated the idea of lying to customers. I was right. My hunch paid off. And I met with 2 different ex-car salesmen who talked with me for hours about the shenanigans played at car dealerships.

Two weeks later I met up with my credit union manager. He allowed me to pick his brain about the best way to finance a new car.

And I remain good friends with several dealership service technicians. They secretly reveal the truth on how their bosses scam us for repairs. And every time I get my cars serviced, they reveal new nonsense about their business.

However, the main source of insider information came from non-listed YouTube videos…

I was able to reverse engineer stuff and find car-selling training videos. Holy cow did I hit the mother load watching these videos. I poured through them all to get to the bottom of how we get fleeced. I spent most of my year off DEVOURING everything about the car-selling biz.

Then I ran into my hero

But my big break came when I stumbled upon a Toyota salesman in Canada. His name is Leo. And he commented on a personal finance website on how leasing a car was always a better financial move – even if we drive a lot of miles each year.

Leo leasing megacomment

His long-winded post created a string of hateful replies. These were closed-minded zombies who did not want to hear the truth about new-car leasing.

But it was an ah-ha moment for me…

So, I tracked down Leo. He sold cars in Toronto, Canada. And then I called him. We spoke at length. And in the end, I was 100% sold on the idea that I would always lease new cars for the rest of my life – even when we drive a lot of miles as I do.

And there it was. The first piece of the puzzle was to always lease a new car – no matter how many miles we drive.

Let me explain:

Leasing by the numbers (it makes “cents”)

“Financial wizards” like Suze Orman and Dave Ramsey love to scream and scold us that “leasing is fleecing.”

But clearly, these “gurus” have never run the lease math in a simple spreadsheet.

Because this recent Consumer Reports’ Leasing vs. Buying graphic reveals the truth for us all to see:

Consumer Reports leasing vs buying

I know, I know… this comparison is super confusing.

I find the easiest way to figure out these numbers is to calculate the total cost of transportation per mile…

And when we calculate the math, something remarkable happens. We see it costs about 34 cents per mile whether we lease a car or buy a car.

Let me repeat this because it is so important: Consumer Reports admits that in their example (above), it costs 34 cents per mile whether we lease or finance a new car.

And:

The numbers are similar if we get into used cars…

Again, it works out to about 34 cents per mile for the same car. Even junkers cost about 34 cents per mile (after adding in the high cost of maintenance and repairs).

The truth is Suze Orman and Dave Ramsey are wrong. Every other Personal Finance writer is wrong, too. Leasing is not fleecing. Because when we add up the math, leasing costs about the same per mile than owning the same car.

But wait, there is more…

There are a lot of myths floating around about new-car leasing:

Myth: leasing costs more to ensure
Fact: it costs EXACTLY the same as ensuring a financed car.

I was skeptical about this. But in my research, I found insurance premiums were exactly the same whether the car is leased or financed.

In fact, financed cars tend to see their premiums drastically increase over time. Because insurance companies reward us when our cars have “nanny technology” to prevent crashes.

Myth: we cannot negotiate a lower selling price on a lease
Fact: Car sellers love to push this myth.

We ASSume that we are getting a low monthly price because the car has already been discounted.

But the truth is almost all new-car leases are sold at the full sticker MSRP price. All the car’s fees are leased at full price, too. Even upgrades and extras are sold without a discount. This is HIGHLY profitable for car sellers, but bad for us.

But:

When we know the secrets, we can get new-car leases discounted up to 26.5% off the MSRP. My clients regularly brag about getting these amazing discounts – which drastically lowers their monthly payment. All we have to do is ask for them.

Myth: we should only focus on the low monthly payment
Fact: Car sellers go out of their way to spread this myth.

The truth is there are just 4 factors to focus on with new-car leasing:

1) Down payment
We should NEVER put money down on a car – whether we lease it or buy it.

A car is a depreciating asset. Only in super-rare cases will a car go higher in value after we get it.

And today’s interest rates are near record lows. So it is better to use our hard-earned cash for investments (not for down payments). Instead, we get “sign and drive”, $0-cash-down leases – which is GREAT for our cash flow.

The other advantage of a no-down-payment lease is this: It keeps car sellers honest. Because when we shop for the best price, asking for $0-down leases helps them focus on giving us the best monthly payment price.

2) Term
The sweet spot for leasing a car is between 24 and 39 months. Anything longer and we will incur thousands and thousands of dollars in extras like replacing tires… replacing brakes and paying for expensive maintenance. Anything less than 24 months is almost always too expensive.

3) MSRP
The MSRP is the recommended full price of the car.

Now here is the most interesting revelation… I found cars with an MSRP of between $30,000 to $46,000 are discounted the most.

How about that!

It kinda makes sense. For example, a $26,000 Kia Sorento is packed with value. Seriously, it is a FANTASTIC buy for the money. And Kia knows it… so they will stay firm on their pricing.

On the flip side, an expensive car sold by Mercedes-Benz and BMW have built-in snob appeal. And to protect the brand, these auto manufacturers also stay firm on their pricing.

But, I find a car selling between $30,000 and $46,000 can get discounted between 21% to 26.5% off the MSRP sticker price.

Knowing this, I regularly see my clients get more car for less money…

So when I look at leasing a $28,500 car, I suggest looking at a similar, slightly more expensive car with an MSRP of over $30,000. This is how we can get an Audi for the price of a Honda.

4) Monthly price
This is the most important number on the lease agreement.

We always want a $0-down, sign and drive deal at $xxx a month. (Of course, the $xxx is what we budget to pay every 30 days.)

Introducing the “1% Rule”

So how do we know $xxx a month – $0 cash down is a good deal?

As a guide, I teach my clients to target a monthly price of 1% of the MSRP – again, sign and drive… no-money-down… a lease term of between 24 and 39 months.

It is a guide. It is not a guarantee. I tell my clients that getting a $0-cash down deal between .79% and 1.3% of the MSRP is great. A 1% deal is the average between the two.

So, for example:

A $31,155 Toyota RAV4 Limited would be near $312 a month – sign and drive… no money down…

A $40,900 Audi Q5 would be near $409 a month – again, $0-cash down.

A loaded 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (SE) priced at an MSRP of $30,850 should be near $309 a month – without any down payment.

And so on and so on.

The best part is we never get caught up in the distractions of leasing. We never worry about fees, interest charges, Residual Values, Money Factors – even discounts or incentives.

Because with my system, we ask car dealers for sign-and-drive deals that come near the 1% rule. Simple. And effective.

Why I love new-car leasing (and you might, too)

Of course, we all know the main advantage of leasing is we are always driving a new car.

(The idea that my car will start every morning is awesome. I used to DREAD starting my 12-year old car. There is nothing worse than having the car stall at traffic lights).

Of course, our new car lease is always covered under the manufacturer’s warranty. This means there are no surprises.

And since we are always getting into new cars, we do not need to worry about paying for expensive maintenance. Plus, we swap into a new car lease just before the tires and brakes need to be replaced – so we save money on those, too.

In fact, the only cost we pay for is for a few oil changes, windshield wiper fluid and wiper blades. Everything else is covered.

Even better:

Each year, cars get safer. So we are always driving the latest and safest cars.

The big advantage for us is new-car leasing improves our cash flow. We get lease deals that skip the need for a down payment. Plus, since we are only paying for the depreciated amount of the car, our payments are much lower.

Do not turn in the end-of-lease car – “flip” it instead

But the BEST part of new-car leasing for me is what I call the “flip.”

Almost no one talks about this, but it is the ultimate end-of-lease hedge.

And since most of the people that come here are looking to end their lease, this might be an exciting surprise…

Let me explain:

The leasing industry tells us we only have 3 ways to end our lease.

This is another lie.

There are actually 4 ways….

Way #1 is we end our lease… turn in our keys at the dealership… and get a ride back home.

Way #2 is we trade in our lease for another new car lease.

And Way #3 is we keep our car and buy out our lease.

But:

I prefer Way #4. It allows us to leverage the rise in the value of our car during the lease.

With Way #4, we can sell our end-of-lease car to the highest bidder. Since the lease agreement gives us the first-right to buy our end-of-lease car, we can “flip” it for an instant profit.

The cool part is there is nothing the car dealer or the leasing company can do about it.

Get this: if we are offered more than the stated payoff amount, we get to keep the difference. Most people bank hundreds – some bank thousands. One person I know flipped a Toyota Tacoma and banked more than $20,000.00!

And this “flipping” strategy is the perfect hedge. Because if we cannot get more than the payoff amount, we revert to the 3 options given to us.

The best part is these car-buying services handle all the paperwork and lease return. They bring out a tow truck to our home, give our car a quick inspection, then hand us a cashier’s check for the difference. It is kind of like a dream come true.

Knowing this, I tracked down all the car-buying services that are funded by Wall Street and compiled a list of those in the USA. Why? Because venture-backed car buying services have “stupid money”. And they tend to overpay us with some of that “stupid money”. And lately, I am seeing super “stupid” cash being paid for end-of-lease cars. I share this list with my clients to help them cash out on their lease equity.

Never experience anxiety again

Let me show you how to end the anxiety of getting a great deal on a new car lease – 100% of the time.

This is the exact formula I used to use when consulting my clients…

What I am about to tell you is something no one in the car selling business wants us to know.

Use this formula, and we have an unfair advantage over every car seller in the USA.

And that is this:

Only sign the new-car lease papers when:

The monthly price is super close to 1% of the MSRP sticker price…

We put $0 cash down – a “sign and drive” lease…

The term of the lease is between 24 and 39 months…

We never go and get a car at a dealership. Never. (Instead, we have them deliver the new car to us)…

And most important, the “Rent Charge” of the lease is only 2- to 3-digits – not 4 digits (or 5 digits).

The “Rent Charge” is a fancy leasing term describing the interest amount we pay over the term of the lease.

Borrowing money for a new-car lease is no different than borrowing money for a traditional new-car purchase. On average, we are charged around 9.5% of the car’s total selling price for the “privilege” of borrowing their money. This always comes out to a 4-digit cost… thousands and thousands of dollars. Sometimes, expensive cars incur a 5-digit cost of borrowing money. This is over $10,000.00.

But:

When using my system, we always get deals with a meager 2- to 3-digit Rent Charge… either less than $100 or hundreds of dollars at most.

Because if we do not get a 2- to 3-digit deal, we just say “no” and find another dealer who will. Simple.

We know that the following new-car leases are GREAT deals – especially since the “Rent Charge” is a fraction of the normal charge:

Using my KTL Leasing System, my client leased this Nissan Rogue SV and only paid $617.65 in Rent Charge – normally it would be around $2,600:

Rent Charge Nissan Rogue SV AWD 617.65

A Hyundai Ioniq would normally have a Rent Charge of around $2,900.00 – but my client only paid $462.54:

Rent Charge Hyundai Ioniq 462.54

A Hyundai Elantra (Sport) would normally set us back at least $2,300.00 in Rent Charge – but my client only paid $183.25:

Rent Charge Hyundai Elantra Sport 183.25

This INFINITI Q50 Red Sport should have cost at least $5,100.00 in Rent Charge – but my client only paid $104.94:

Rent Charge INFINITI Q50 Red Sport 104.94

This INFINITI Q50 Premium Plus should cost around $3,700.00 in Rent Charge – but my client only paid $70.44:

Rent Charge INFINITI Q50 Premium Plus 70.44

This Volvo S90 (T6) should have cost around $5,400.00 in Rent Charge – but my client only paid $32.11:

Rent Charge Volvo S90 T6 32.11

I saved the best for last – see how the Rent Charge is only $10.05 here:

Rent charge 10.05

The bottom line is we never have to be anxious about getting into a new car again. Because I just laid out the bulletproof formula to see if we got a good deal at a glance…

Again, the formula to see if we got a GREAT deal is:

  • A monthly payment near 1% of the MSRP…
  • Sign and drive – $0 cash down…
  • A leasing term between 24 and 39 months…
  • Never, ever visit a car dealership (instead have the car delivered to us)…
  • “Rent Charge” less than $999.

Simple…

Anyone can do it using my system…

100% stress-free…

And the best part: the process is actually fun (imagine that)!

You can try and get a good deal on your next car, but…

I created this blog to showcase how my system works to get the best deals on new car leases… no money down – and without ever stepping foot in a car dealership.

And the best part is I offer my entire new-car leasing system virtually free (see below).

But:

Some people try to do all the work themselves… without the help of my proven system.

And it is a disaster for them.

Sending out a bunch of poorly worded emails plays right in the hands of professional car sellers.

Most will ignore us and trick us into coming into their “stealership”. And this is a fatal mistake. This is an unfair advantage for them – because they are seasoned professionals. We get into a new car every few years. Yet, car dealers sell cars every hour. They have been professionally trained to sell on our weak, emotional thoughts. We have no chance of getting a truly great deal on their turf.

Even worse, most people contact the wrong car dealerships. They contact a list of local car sellers who look to make $6,000.00 to $12,000.00 per sale. These dealerships have no interest in slashing their price by thousands. Instead, they are looking to fleece the public selling at “invoice price” – a meager 6% discount.

In simple speak, they are asking all the wrong dealerships for the lowest price.

Sometimes, people “think” they get lucky. And they will find an “honest” dealer to quote a price over email. In fact, the price will match everything we look for in a great deal. And they rush over to the dealership to “go get their new car”. (Some even spend money on flying to a dealership). But as soon as they meet with their salesperson, they are given the bad news – “Oh, I’m sorry… your car was sold an hour ago.” This is called the “switcharoo.” This is a common scheme. And somehow, this is not against the law (although it should). And the car salesperson will offer a similar car at a similar price… which is a lie… because, in the end, it will be at a MUCH higher price.

Almost 100% of the time, emailing the wrong dealers in the wrong way is a painful lesson in futility. Again, car dealers are trained to easily handle this. And they will use every psychological trick in the book to wear us down.

But:

It does not have to be this way.

We can either fly in the dark…

Or, we can make the savvy move – and use a proven system with proven results:

My clients follow my system and see the best deals – usually in less than 20 minutes.

Since we are contacting my list of wholesale car dealerships, we are treated with respect. Instead of getting the typical runaround, these car sellers are EXCITED to earn our sale and lease us one of their new cars.

Most of these aggressive dealerships will deliver our new car from over 1,000 miles away. Why? Because they are anxious to get that one extra sale to help them make their massive manufacturer-to-dealer monthly bonus payment.

Either a dealership delivers our new car directly to us, or hires a towing company to deliver our new car on a flatbed carrier – like this:

flatbed delivery carrier

This is my client accepting delivery at his apartment building – the car was delivered from more than 4 hours away:

dealer delivery Volvo

Instead of being treated like dirt, we are treated like royalty.

Instead of experiencing the frustration and pain of getting into a new lease, getting a new car will be fun – like it should.

Get my entire KTL USA At-home Leasing System (virtually free)

Instead of paying thousands and thousands to car sellers, you get to keep (most of) it and use the savings to buy my entire system as if it were free.

If you are like most of my clients, you are moving from an end-of-lease situation into a new-car lease…

And when you “flip” your vehicle as I detailed above, at a minimum, your $350.00 end-of-lease inception fee is waived.

Even better: if you drove more than the allotted mileage, all the mileage penalties are waived. This is hundreds (or thousands) more saved.

And when you borrow my list of Wall Street-funded car buying services, you can easily sell your end-of-lease car to the highest bidder – without leaving your home. When they offer you more money for the car than the 10-day payoff amount, you keep the difference… that could be hundreds… even thousands of FREE dollars into your bank account.

But the biggest cash savings is when we lease a new car from a wholesale car dealership…

Since we never pay a single penny as a down payment, we save thousands of dollars – money we do not need to get into a new car. In fact, in many cases, we save even more money… because some cars require $4,999… $7,999 – I have even seen down payment requirements of $14,999. But with my system, car sellers forgive these down payments and let us keep our cash.

Bottom line: when we add up all these immediate savings, we get to keep most of the cash for ourselves – and order my entire system as if it were FREE.

This is not for everyone

While I would love to sell my system to everyone, there are some who will not enjoy using it.

This only works in the lower 48
Here in the USA, we can eat fried Twinkies, get gas 24 hours a day and shop amongst dozens of Toyota dealerships within a 90-mile drive.

No other country on the planet has this much competition amongst car sellers.

And my system relies on this competition to get 1% deals.

So this will not work in Canada or Mexico. It will not work in Hawaii, Alaska or Puerto Rico either…

It only works for people in the lower 48 of America.

This will not work for leasing a Tesla (or Mitsubishi brand)
If you are looking to lease a Tesla, my system will not work for you. It will not work for those looking to lease a Mitsubishi vehicle, either…

The good news is every other production car sold in America is fair game. I have a list of approximately 3,400 wholesale car dealerships in America – representing the following car brands:

Acura
Alpha Romeo
Audi
BMW
Buick
Cadillac
Chevrolet
Chrysler
Dodge
Fiat
Ford
Genesis
GMC
Honda
Hyundai
Infiniti
Jaguar
Jeep
Kia
Land Rover
Lexus
Lincoln
Maserati
Mazda
Mercedes-Benz
Mini
Nissan
Porsche
Ram
Rolls Royce
Subaru
Toyota
Volkswagon
Volvo

This does not work with trucks or motorhomes
My system only works for leasing new cars.

You must have a FICO score over 620
Also, you must have verifiable income of at least $19,000 yearly. And self-employed people must show at least 2 years of tax returns showing more than $19,000 of income.

One more thing

Normally, I do not resort to those lame “act-by-such-and-such-a-date-to-avoid-a-price-increase” nonsense. I hate that. I know marketers use this to pressure us into buying now. It is repugnant to me.

But:

I raised the price of my system 3 times over the last 7 months – often unannounced.

Why?

Because lately, curious people have been ordering my system, but only “browsing”. The car industry calls these “tire kickers”. They test the waters, but never lease a new car.

And this is bad.

Because car dealers HATE people like this.

And if too many of my clients are not serious about leasing a new car, my list of wholesale car dealers will not play along with my system.

So here is my warning: I closely watch the tire kickers from those who take action and use my system to get into a new-car lease. If too many people are “just looking”, I will be forced to raise my price again. It might happen minutes from now or 5 months from now. If I raise my price, it will just arise without warning or fanfare.

Ready to get your new car at the lowest price – $0 cash down?

If your vehicle is ready to be traded in, remember – I have a list of Wall Street-funded car buying services ready to pay top dollar for your vehicle.

Then, I have a list of wholesale car dealerships in all 3 selling zones here in the USA. They are willing and able to lease us a new car near the 1% rule – with no money down.

Even better, we never visit a car dealership – we “e-sign” the lease papers and accept delivery at our house (or at our place of work).

And the best part is all the savings pay for my system.

Ready. Set. Go…

We all know car “stealerships” are out to get us. They are going to (try and) fleece us for every penny we have.

Yet, after reading this post, you know I offer a perfect solution to this common problem.

You can access my entire new-car leasing system – which includes FREE updates for a full 12 months.

My system eliminates all the anxiety of getting rid of your old car and getting into a new car.

But:

You have to do it…

You cannot “kick the tires”…

You are only going to see fantastic results when you make it happen. And my system helps you do it all.

Ordering my system is the savvy option. It makes it super fast and easy to get out of your old car and into a new car… at the best price… with $0 cash down – without ever stepping foot into a dealership.

At the bottom of this post is a link to order my system…

Once you click it, you will see this screen:

KTL order screen

We fill in our name and email address to get started. And then we create a username and password.

Next, check this box to agree to the secrecy clause. Yes, my system is for your eyes only. You cannot share this with friends or your favorite brother in law. This is important because if my system gets in the wrong hands, it will lose its effectiveness.

KTL secrecy clause

Finally, you will see this section to enter your payment details. I accept all major debit cards and credit cards:

KTL order payment

Seconds after your payment is processed, you get unlimited access to my entire system for a full 12 months.

FAQs

Do you offer any performance guarantee that this will work for me?
As I mentioned above:

Ever since the Fall of 1997, I offered lifetime performance guarantees on all my information products. It was great for me (sold more stuff) and great for my clients (of course, put them at ease).

Then earlier this year, the FTC went after people like me… saying my guarantee implied a “claim.”

A claim means my system has to work 100% for 100% of my clients. If only 99.9% get the benefit, I am in violation of their “claims” law.

Of course, I do guarantee access to my online system – it works on all devices, including Mac to PCs… mobile, laptop and desktop…

But ever since the latest crackdown on performance guarantees, I no longer offer ’em.

So no. I am no longer able to guarantee my program. It requires a small leap of faith.

It sucks. Sucks for me and my potential clients. But, this is what happens when people scream for government regulation.

I live in the middle of nowhere – will your system work for me?
As long as you are leasing new cars from these auto manufacturers:

Acura
Alpha Romeo
Audi
BMW
Buick
Cadillac
Chevrolet
Chrysler
Dodge
Fiat
Ford
Genesis
GMC
Honda
Hyundai
Infiniti
Jaguar
Jeep
Kia
Land Rover
Lexus
Lincoln
Maserati
Mazda
Mercedes-Benz
Mini
Nissan
Porsche
Ram
Rolls Royce
Subaru
Toyota
Volkswagon
Volvo

And you reside in the lower 48 in the USA…

And you have a FICO score greater than 620…

And you can prove a yearly income of at least $19,000…

You can use my system and get new-car leases at the best price… $0 cash down – without stepping foot in a dealership.

Kim from Idaho is my favorite example. She lives in the middle of nowhere. Yet, she got a killer deal. Here is my Google Hangout with her:

My lease ends in about 90 days and I am ready to order your leasing system. Should I get your system now or wait a bit?
Having 90 days to get out of your current lease and into a new car lease is the perfect scenario.

Unfortunately, most people stumble upon my blog at the last minute. And rushing can be hectic, stressful – even costly.

The good news is my leasing system gives you unrestricted access for a full 12 months. So when you order my leasing system today, you get plenty of time to watch my videos and written tutorials.

Also, ordering now locks in the price…

I continually raise the price of access to restrict the number of people using my system. Because if too many use it at once, it loses its effectiveness…

In fact, I only accept 3 new clients a day. If you click on the link below to order and see a blank screen with this message:

KTL sold out

… It means I am sold out for today.

The good news is I reset everything every night at 12:00 a.m. midnight (New York time). So if it is sold out today, you can check back at midnight tonight and see if it available for you to order.

Click here to order and see if my KTL USA At-Home Leasing System is available…

Order it now – get everything in just seconds (no delay)!

My entire KTL USA At-Home Leasing System is just $299.

This one-time investment gives you a full 12-month of access to my entire leasing system.

There is no delay. You get password-protected, online access just seconds after your payment is processed.

My system includes my up-to-date list of Wall Street-funded car buying services that pay top dollar for our car. Use my list to get the best chance to “flip” your vehicle for a nifty profit – even if you are ending your lease, too.

Then, you get instant access to my list of wholesale car dealerships that are ready to lease us cars from just about any auto manufacturer here in the USA.

I include fill-in-the-blank contact letters to find the lowest-priced dealerships. Just type in the car you want and get ready to lease your next car at a target rate of 1% of the MSRP – always $0 cash down.

Your order includes 2 bonuses:

Bonus #1: Get instant access to my up-to-date list of auto insurance companies that specialize in car leases. This list gives us the best chance to get the best policy at the absolute lowest premium.

Bonus #2: I include my At-Home 850 Credit Building System (which regularly sells for $199.00). A higher credit score reduces the Rent Charge on a car’s lease. And my system shows you how to boost your credit the fast and easy way.

I am super passionate about my system. I know it will give you the best chance to flip your old car for a profit AND get into virtually any new car near 1% of the MSRP – and always $0 cash down.

That is why I encourage you to get my system right now – click here to get it and put the joy of getting a new car back into your life.